Press: TONY Eating & Drinking Guide 2002

A St. Marks Place storefront does not bode well for any restaurant, let alone a Mexican one that claims to offer “authentic” cuisine. But ignore the place at your peril. La Palapa’s renditions of cocina Mexicana – cod fillet with green pumpkin-seed sauce, ancho chili-braised barbecue lamb shanks, chicken slow-cooked withguajillo chilies and avocado leaves — will send you home stuffed but still salivating. Familiar, oft-mauled standards like tacos and enchiladas are given the consciousness-raising treatment here: Enchiladas are topped with queso fresco as well as green tomatillo or red mole sauce, and the tacos are stuffed with fresh-grilled bistec or chili-rubbed roasted chicken.